FAQ
Customized Services
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Q.
Do you offer OEM/ODM services?
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A.
Yes. We offer full OEM and ODM services. OEM includes custom formulation, mixing ratio adjustment, and container specifications. ODM includes product design based on your requirements from concept to production.
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Q.
What is your white-label service?
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A.
We manufacture ready-formulated epoxy products, and you brand them with your own labels and packaging. This is the fastest way to get your own product line to market.
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Q.
What can you customize?
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A.
Formula (viscosity, cure time, hardness, color), container specifications (1kg to 200kg drums), labels, and color boxes.
Product and Quality
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Q.
What epoxy products do you manufacture?
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Clear epoxy resin, hard glass-type epoxy, coatings and flooring compounds, potting compounds, adhesives, decorative crystal epoxy, soft epoxy, LED resin, and curing agents. We also offer UV resin, PU resin, and silicone.
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Q.
What certifications do your products have?
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ISO, SGS, MSDS, REACH, RoHS, CPSIA, and EN71-3. All certificates are provided with each shipment upon request.
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Do you have an R&D team?
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Yes. Our R&D team has over 20 members. We develop new formulas based on your application needs using imported raw materials and advanced equipment.
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Q.
Why is my two-part epoxy still soft or not fully cured?
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A.
Common causes include an incorrect A:B ratio, incomplete mixing, low ambient temperature, or insufficient cure time. Measure accurately using the specified weight or volume ratio, and scrape the sides and bottom of the cup while mixing. Low temperatures can significantly extend curing. Warm the workspace only within the product's recommended range, and never alter the A:B ratio unless instructed by the manufacturer.
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Q.
Why does cured epoxy feel tacky or sticky?
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A tacky surface is usually related to an incorrect ratio, incomplete mixing, low temperature, high humidity, or insufficient cure time. Verify the measuring method, mix thoroughly, and cure in a clean, dry, temperature-stable environment. If tackiness remains after the stated cure period, record the batch number, ratio, mixed mass, temperature, humidity, and cure time for technical review.
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Q.
Are epoxy working time and curing time related?
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They are generally related: faster-reacting systems often have shorter working and curing times. However, formulations can be adjusted to provide a long working time with a comparatively faster cure. Do not estimate full cure from pot life alone; follow the technical data sheet for the specific grade.
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Q.
Why does the same epoxy cure at different speeds in different seasons?
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A.
Temperature, humidity, mixed mass, pour thickness, and substrate temperature all affect reaction speed. Lower temperatures usually slow curing, while higher temperatures or larger mixed volumes accelerate the reaction and increase heat buildup. Times stated in product literature are based on controlled tests, so reasonable variation should be expected in real projects.
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Q.
Under what conditions are working time and cure time tested?
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The source documents use a common reference condition of approximately 25°C, about 70% relative humidity, and a mixed mass of around 100 g. Test conditions may differ by grade, so website specifications should be labeled as typical values for reference and linked to the latest product-specific TDS.
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Q.
Why can fast-curing epoxy heat up quickly?
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Epoxy curing is exothermic. Fast-curing formulas, high ambient temperatures, oversized batches, or leaving mixed resin in a deep cup can cause rapid heat buildup. Severe overheating may lead to bubbling, yellowing, cracking, or an uncontrolled cure. Limit batch size, control room temperature, and spread or pour the resin promptly within the recommended thickness.
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Q.
How long does epoxy take to fully cure?
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Cure schedules vary widely by formulation. In one 2:1 deep-pour test from the source documents, initial cure occurred at about 18-24 hours, intermediate cure at around 3 days, and full cure at 7 days or longer. This is not a universal specification. Always follow the TDS and actual application conditions for the selected grade.
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Q.
Can I add extra hardener to make epoxy cure faster?
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No. Adding hardener beyond the specified ratio disrupts the crosslinking reaction and may cause softness, tackiness, reduced strength, or permanent under-cure. If a faster cure is required, select a fast-curing grade or adjust the application temperature only within the approved range.
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Q.
How can I reduce bubbles while mixing and pouring epoxy?
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Use clean, dry tools, stir slowly in one direction, and scrape the sides and bottom of the cup. Where the working time allows, let the mixture rest briefly. Low-viscosity systems can also be vacuum-degassed. For surface bubbles, pass a heat gun quickly on a low setting while keeping a safe distance. Avoid overheating, ensure ventilation, and wear appropriate PPE.
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Q.
Why do small resin castings have many tiny surface bubbles?
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If bubbles are concentrated where the casting touches the mold, dust, moisture, surface texture, or trapped air on the mold is usually involved. Clean and dry the mold thoroughly, and brush on a thin resin coat before the main pour. If bubbles are distributed inside the casting, review resin viscosity, mixing speed, and degassing method.
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Q.
Why is cured epoxy uneven or not glossy?
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Gloss-grade epoxy reproduces the texture of the surface it contacts. A matte, aged, contaminated, or scratched mold can create a dull or uneven finish. For open coatings, also check application thickness, substrate cleanliness, temperature and humidity, and whether surface cratering occurred.
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Q.
What causes fisheyes or craters in epoxy coatings?
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Fisheyes are usually caused by surface-energy differences or contamination such as silicone, wax, oil, moisture, release-agent residue, or an overly smooth substrate. Microbubbles can create similar defects. Clean and, where appropriate, abrade the substrate before coating. Avoid silicone contamination and use a compatible primer or coating-grade formula when required.
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Q.
Why are there oil-like marks on the cured epoxy surface?
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Oil-like marks are commonly associated with moisture, high humidity, substrate contamination, incompatible additives, mold residue, or incomplete mixing. Keep relative humidity within the recommended range, ensure molds and substrates are clean and dry, and use only validated compatible colorants and additives.
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Why does cured epoxy develop wrinkles or a skin-like surface?
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Possible causes include overheating from an oversized batch, a large cure-rate difference between the surface and interior, or strong airflow during early curing. Reduce batch size, control ambient temperature, and cure in a dust-free area without direct drafts.
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Q.
How can I tell whether a cloudy finish comes from the mold or moisture?
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Compare the mold-contact side with the air-exposed side. If only the mold-contact side is dull, the mold texture or contamination is the likely cause. If the air-exposed surface is cloudy, humidity or surface reaction may be involved. If the entire casting is cloudy, check moisture exposure, mixing quality, and additive compatibility.
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Q.
When should I choose low-viscosity or high-viscosity epoxy?
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Low-viscosity epoxy offers better flow and penetration and generally releases bubbles more easily, making it useful for deep casting, potting, and narrow gaps. Higher-viscosity epoxy holds coating thickness and suspended pigments more effectively, making it suitable for tumblers, surface coating, or applications that require less sagging. Choose based on pour depth, working time, and the desired finish.
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Q.
Why can deep-pour epoxy turn noticeably yellow during curing?
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Sudden yellowing during cure often indicates excessive heat buildup. An overly deep pour, excessive batch volume, high ambient temperature, or a fast-curing formula not designed for deep casting can accelerate the reaction. Follow the grade-specific maximum pour depth and batch size, and control the temperature of the resin, wood, and workspace.
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Why do large bubbles or dense microbubbles appear at the bottom of a deep pour?
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Bottom bubbles may come from air released by wood or another porous substrate, or they may indicate excessive exotherm. If yellowing, growing bubbles, cracks, or unusually high temperature appear at the same time, investigate overheating first. Seal porous substrates, pour in stages when required, and follow layer-thickness and temperature limits.
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What causes deep-pour epoxy to crack?
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Cracking is usually related to heat buildup and internal temperature gradients caused by excessive pour depth, oversized batches, high ambient temperature, or poor heat dissipation around the mold. Use a dedicated deep-pour formula, reduce layer thickness or batch size, and allow even airflow around the mold.
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Q.
Why is shrinkage more noticeable in large castings?
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Epoxy undergoes some volumetric shrinkage during cure. Large castings generate more heat and develop greater temperature differences between the center and edges, making shrinkage more visible. Small castings dissipate heat faster, so shrinkage is often less noticeable. A low-exotherm deep-pour formula, controlled batch size, and stable temperature can reduce visible shrinkage.
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Q.
Why can cured river-table epoxy pull away from the wood edges?
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In addition to normal resin shrinkage, high wood moisture, dust or oil, inadequate sealing, an overly smooth bonding surface, or later wood movement can cause edge separation. Dry and condition the wood, clean and abrade the bonding surfaces as appropriate, and apply a compatible seal coat before the main pour.
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Q.
Why do pigments or mica powders separate or settle in deep-pour epoxy?
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Deep-pour epoxy usually has low viscosity and a long working time, so pigments with different densities can float or settle. Use a moderate pigment loading, create patterns after the resin begins to thicken slightly, or choose a more suitable viscosity. Never change the A:B ratio to prevent settling.
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Q.
How do I determine the maximum pour depth and batch size?
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Maximum pour depth is not determined by mix ratio alone. It also depends on formulation speed, mold dimensions, total mass, ambient temperature, substrate, and heat dissipation. Check the grade-specific TDS. For large projects, run a small trial and provide the supplier with length, width, depth, expected volume, and application temperature.
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Q.
Why does UV resin sometimes look yellow immediately after curing?
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Reaction heat can make some UV resins appear temporarily yellow immediately after exposure, and the color may lessen after cooling. If yellowing remains, check whether lamp wavelength and power match the formula, whether exposure was excessive, whether the layer is too thick, and whether colorants are blocking light.
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Q.
Why is UV resin tacky after curing?
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Common causes include insufficient exposure, lamp-power degradation, an incompatible wavelength, excessive layer thickness, or oxygen inhibition at the surface. Use a UV/LED lamp in the wavelength range specified for the product, reduce the lamp distance, and cure in thin layers. Check actual output if the lamp has been used for a long time.
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Q.
Why is hard UV resin still soft after exposure?
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First confirm that the product is a hard UV resin rather than a flexible grade. If the grade is correct, softness usually indicates incomplete depth cure, excessive layer thickness, insufficient lamp output, or heat immediately after exposure. Cure in thin layers and allow the piece to cool fully before evaluating hardness.
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Q.
Why does UV resin bend or shrink during curing?
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UV resin shrinks during rapid polymerization. Excessive light intensity, thick single layers, or uneven exposure can increase warping. Apply the resin in layers, use the recommended lamp power and distance, and expose all areas as evenly as possible.
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Q.
What UV lamp wavelength should I use?
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Common UV/LED resin systems use 365 nm, 395 nm, or 405 nm light sources, but not every formula is compatible with all wavelengths. Follow the wavelength, output, distance, and exposure time specified on the product label or TDS.
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Q.
Why is dark or opaque UV resin difficult to cure?
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Dark pigments, mica powders, and opaque fillers absorb or scatter UV light, reducing energy at depth. Lower the additive level, reduce layer thickness, use multiple exposure cycles where appropriate, and choose colorants validated for UV resin.
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Q.
How much colorant or mica powder can I add to UV resin?
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The source documents recommend keeping total additions at approximately 3% or less. However, dark, light-blocking powders or solvent-containing dyes may interfere with curing at much lower levels. Start with a small trial and use colorants specifically designed for UV resin.
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Q.
How much liquid dye should I add to two-part epoxy?
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The source documents give a typical recommendation of about 0.1%-1% of the total mixed resin, with 3% generally treated as an upper limit. The actual allowance depends on dye concentration, solvent system, target color, and resin formulation. Add colorant after measuring components A and B at the specified ratio, and do not alter the original A:B ratio.
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Q.
Which pigments are generally compatible with epoxy resin?
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Common options include epoxy-compatible liquid dyes, pigment pastes, mica powders, and pearlescent powders. Alcohol inks, acrylic paints, water-containing colorants, or high-solvent dyes can affect curing, clarity, or surface quality and should be validated with a small compatibility test first.
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Q.
Why do fast-curing or higher-viscosity resins suspend mica better?
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Higher viscosity slows particle settling, while a shorter gel time locks patterns in place sooner. These systems are useful for suspending mica or preserving layered color effects, but their working time is shorter, so molds, pigments, and tools should be prepared in advance.
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How is fast-curing epoxy different from standard 1:1 craft resin?
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Fast-curing grades generally gel and demold sooner and may offer higher viscosity, faster hardness development, and a shorter working window, making them useful for small-batch production. Standard 1:1 craft resin usually provides more working time. With fast systems, limit batch size and prepare colors and molds before mixing.
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Which epoxy is best for tabletop or flooring surface coatings?
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Choose a dedicated coating or self-leveling resin rather than a deep-pour formula. Coating grades are optimized for leveling, mirror gloss, hardness development, and thin-layer curing. The source documents identify 2120AB-D as the preferred surface-coating grade and 1201AB-F as an alternative; final selection should still consider substrate, thickness, and abrasion requirements.
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Why does epoxy yellow over time?
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Epoxy can gradually yellow because of UV exposure, heat, and long-term oxidation. Yellow-resistant formulations, UV stabilizers, reduced exposure to sunlight and heat, and a compatible protective topcoat can slow the process, but permanent non-yellowing should not be promised for every environment.
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How heat-resistant is cured epoxy?
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Heat resistance depends on formulation, cure completeness, post-cure schedule, and mechanical load. Most craft and deep-pour grades in the source table show a reference range of approximately 55-68°C, while composite grades may be higher. These values must be confirmed by grade and test method. Near the glass-transition temperature, epoxy may soften without actually melting.
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How do I choose among craft, deep-pour, coating, and composite epoxy?
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For small molds and crafts, choose an easy-to-use casting resin with good natural bubble release. For thick river tables, use a low-viscosity, low-exotherm deep-pour grade with a long working time. For tabletops and floors, choose a high-leveling, high-gloss coating resin. For surfboards, fiberglass, and carbon fiber, use a composite resin designed for wet-out, adhesion, and mechanical performance.
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Q.
What information should I provide when requesting technical support?
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Provide the product grade and batch number, A:B ratio and measuring method, mixed mass, pour dimensions, ambient temperature and humidity, substrate or mold type, additive level, mixing and cure time, plus clear photos or video. Complete application data makes it much easier to distinguish material, environmental, and process factors.
Production Capacity and Delivery
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What is your production capacity?
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Annual capacity exceeds 10,000 tons. Our factory is 20,000 square meters with 8 automated production lines.
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What is your on-time delivery rate?
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99%. We maintain sufficient raw material inventory to support stable supply for regular orders.
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Do you ship internationally?
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Yes. We serve over 2,000 partners in more than 70 countries. We handle logistics coordination and customs clearance documentation.